Have some questions? Here's some of the more commonly asked ones!
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Absolutely! However, I do have to set up each country/region manually. If you go to checkout and it won’t let you pay, or it says shipping isn’t available, just send me a Contact Us form and I’ll get it setup for you. (I prefer to do it this way so I can get realistic shipping prices, instead of blanket overcharging for shipping)
I believe in using quality components, which helps eliminate issues down the road. No one wants an iffy input jack, or a footswitch that you can’t depend on.
The 1/4″ input jacks are usually Lumberg KLB3 Stereo Jacks, even on products that don’t require Stereo jacks. The price difference between mono & stereo is a matter of pennies, so it makes my stock keeping easier.
The SPST switches are from Suntsu, and I have never had an issue with these firing or longevity of them. These are the same footswitches used by many large pedal companies such as JHS. *Sometimes, I may end up with larger headed switches, and sometimes smaller rounded-heads, depending on what’s in stock and/or what fits the project. Also, their short switch only comes in the small rounded head currently. However I will never mix-and-match the switches in your order, unless I reach out first to discuss why I think we should or have to.
The plugs for all cables are SquarePlug SP550 Stereo jacks.
I've been through thousands of these switches as of Sept 2023, with 1 manufacturing issue with 1 footswitch which was promptly taken care of and sent back to the Suntsu for root cause analysys. I have a great relationship with them, and someday they'll be the ones to manufacture a footswitch of my own design!
First, I don’t have a multi-color 3d printer. I could do color changes manually, but adding the human component right there can lead to issues. Someday I may be able to afford a multi-material printer, but until then I actually prefer to hand-paint these. Leaving the 3d printed object itself a single filament/color results in a stronger model overall and more predictable quality results. Even changing between White material within the same brand/batch/lot can result in different print qualities, so I’m overly careful how and when I swap materials.
I’ve tried acrylic paint markers, sharpies, dye, and a few different kinds of paint. What I ended up on was pretty simple: Testor’s Enamel model paint with a fine-tipped brush. This provides the best quality, lets me do a few light layer coats for best smoothness and coverage, and gives me a crazy number of colors to choose from!
If I don’t have a color you want, there will be an option on the product form to request a custom color. I’ll have to charge a few bucks for the new paint, but I’m happy to accommodate as the store is close by. You can also order them uncolored and do it yourself!
Sort of! I have a product, the MiniAux, which is the smallest I’ve been able to make an aux switch. Take a look, or feel free to Contact Us and I can custom design a switch for your needs!
That’s liquid electrical tape. I love these flat DIY squareplug jacks, but there’s not a lot of room in them. To help ensure zero shorts even if the cable gets twisted/bent/yanked/etc, after I’ve soldered them I’ve started to goop them to help prevent solder/wire breaks from too much patch cable adjusting/flexing. While it’s not necessary, I’ve decided it’s worth doing everything I can to ensure a flawless experience as long as possible; which now includes a little extra liquid electrical tape reinforcement.
Pedalnetics – Like it looks: Ped Uhl Net Icks, or something like that
Helauxy – He Locks E, as in HELix AUxillarY pedals
